Jonathan looks at the modern wine industry of this classic.
In the past many people from outside of Greece have thought that the country must be to too dry and hot to make quality wines, but discovering which varieties are suited to climates and soils is the fundamental foundation of quality wine production.
The success of quality wine production in Greece over the past few decades is not due to solely sticking to imported grape varieties we see everywhere, although these are certainly grown, but on concentrating on their own indigenous varieties. Some of these grapes can trace their origins back to ancient Greece, the foundation stone of wine production as we know it.
Back in the mid 80’s a new breed of wine makers, fresh from their studies in France, returned to create this modern wine making epoch we know today. Along with a cash injection from the EU and some individual wine producers with long term ambitions, enabled them to plant smaller wineries in areas where the land was cheaper and to develop the larger negotiants with state-of-the-art machinery.
The local grape varieties, mainly white, are grown in various regions of Greece and many of the islands. Peloponnissos, the southern peninsular has seen the most change and upgrades in terms of production. In the north of the region, they produce some fine white wines from the Roditis grape. This is the principal variety although the Lagorthi grape and Mavrodaphne are both building fine reputations.
Naoussa in the north of the country is the most important region in the country. It was the first to be developed in 1971. Although many wineries are still ill equipped, they produce some fine reds, some say reminiscent of Barolo in Italy. The winters here are cold but in summer irrigation is permitted due to the excessive dryness.
Try these…
Methea Red, Evia central Greece. £14.49
A beautifully smooth elegant red made from the Mandelaria grape. It has softer silky red berry fruit characters and balanced tannins.
Zacharias White,Nemea, Peloponnese £12.49
A crisp white with a fresh soft finish. Citrus hints on the nose, it’s the perfect spring/summer white.
Angel Heart White Macedonia Northern Greece. £16.49
A blanc de noir (made from the red grape Xinomavro but without the skin contact, only using the white juice). A lovely vibrant balanced wine with great ageing potential.